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By 0Rest of Bordeaux

We live in a polarized world, and wine is no exception. Are you Team New World or Team Old World ? Team Italy or Team France ? Team Burgundy or Team Bordeaux ? Team Left Bank or Team Right Bank ? This is not a new phenomenon, but it appears to be increasingly difficult to occupy the middle ground, to exist “in-between”. Which is exactly where my new home is : the Entre-deux-Mers, the land in-between. To nascent fine wine enthusiasts, Bordeaux is presented as a clear left-right dichotomy, Cabernet or Merlot, grace or opulence, choose your camp. The reality is that, until this year, the Medoc accounted

By 0Germany

A recent short trip to Germany involved a lot of trains (Bordeaux to the Palatinate and back can be done without resort to airplanes, if you are suitably motivated) and a lot of psychological support for 2nd Year MW students desperately preparing for their final exams. This did not leave much time for vineyard visits, but the evenings allowed our group to abuse the warm hospitality of three different wineries. Most intimate was the small and delightful WEINGUT ISEGRIM outside Bad Durkheim. Most stylish was WEINGUT RINGS, where the wines are as impressive as the installations (check out the espresso machine !). And most crazy was WEINGUT KARL

By 0Whisky

I recently came across a couple of articles published back in 2021 in the magazine Club Oenologique. In the first, Andrew Jefford questions the possible application of the wine term ‘terroir’ to the universe of scotch whisky, and concludes that terroir, as “the wine-community” uses the term, does not and cannot apply to single malt whisky production. The second article is a strongly-worded riposte from Mark Reynier, fine-wine merchant turned distiller, who not only disagrees with Jefford, but states he has firm proof to the contrary. Wine people get very worked up about terroir. Many love the concept, while some believe it the last refuge of scoundrels and other

By 0Rest of Bordeaux, Wine

As I write, the Bordeaux 2022 “primeurs” campaign officially kicks into money-time with the earlyrelease of futures from Cheval Blanc and Angelus. Despite price rises of 20% and 32% respectively,commentators expect them to be oversubscribed rapidly. This is not just another example oframpant inflation, but a clear indicator of flourishing economic health at the top end of the Bordeauxwine industry. Cheval Blanc is being offered at 470 euros per bottle (trade price, before tax, finalcustomers will have to pay distinctly more), and with the aim of selling two thirds of their production,this operation should bring in at least 30 million euros in cashflow a year before the wine