October 2023

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I recently came across a couple of articles published back in 2021 in the magazine Club Oenologique. In the first, Andrew Jefford questions the possible application of the wine term ‘terroir’ to the universe of scotch whisky, and concludes that terroir, as “the wine-community” uses the term, does not and cannot apply to single malt whisky production. The second article is a strongly-worded riposte from Mark Reynier, fine-wine merchant turned distiller, who not only disagrees with Jefford, but states he has firm proof to the contrary. Wine people get very worked up about terroir. Many love the concept, while some believe it the last refuge of scoundrels and other

As I write, the Bordeaux 2022 “primeurs” campaign officially kicks into money-time with the earlyrelease of futures from Cheval Blanc and Angelus. Despite price rises of 20% and 32% respectively,commentators expect them to be oversubscribed rapidly. This is not just another example oframpant inflation, but a clear indicator of flourishing economic health at the top end of the Bordeauxwine industry. Cheval Blanc is being offered at 470 euros per bottle (trade price, before tax, finalcustomers will have to pay distinctly more), and with the aim of selling two thirds of their production,this operation should bring in at least 30 million euros in cashflow a year before the wine